"For me, the greatest flavour from crustaceans comes from the shell and the head meat," says Moyle. "I love the richness that you get from this sauce, but I also hate it due to my developed allergy of crustacea. It doesn't stop me cooking with it and tasting it, however. I've just had to learn to live with a swollen mouth occasionally. This method of preparation for the calamari is very adaptable - it can be used in salads or broths alike."
Note Fennel pollen is available from Herbie's Spices. A chinois is a conical-shaped, fine mesh strainer ideal for straining sauces and stocks.