A deep interest in the nuts and bolts of cuisine informed Ben Devlin's cooking even before he left his native Queensland for a two-year stretch in the kitchen at Noma. Grains and fermenting, bread and beer are among his fascinations, and now at Paper Daisy, the restaurant set in the luxe confines of boutique hotel Halcyon House at Cabarita Beach on the north coast of New South Wales, Devlin has immersed himself further in the study of local and indigenous ingredients. "I've started to use pipis more frequently over the last couple of years, and I've found the creaminess and savoury flavour of the macadamia milk makes a great sauce to carry and enhance their subtle flavour," he says. "The resilient texture of pici works well here - the pipi shells tend to damage thinner varieties of pasta. Substitute clams here if you can't get good pipis." Start this recipe a day ahead to make the macadamia milk.
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