Dinner Wed-Sun 6pm-10pm
Is it a bar? Is it a bird? A restaurant? An aeroplane? The lighting, the volume of the '80s pop, the focus on booze and indeed the name say bar, but the quality of the cooking, the attentive and intelligent table service and the presence of one Analiese Gregory in the kitchen place it firmly in the restaurant camp. Gregory ran a brigade of 40 at Quay, and clocked time with Michel Bras in the Aubrac, yet her snacks and share plates here are as much about play as work. Spaghetti carbonara succeeds with straightness, while gnocchi with lap cheong, kombu butter and gai lan is perfectly bent. The late-night sandwich, a toastie of pineapple-glazed ham, 'nduja, and crème fraîche is glam ballast, while airy gougères flavoured with Comté complement the more savoury thrills of the radical wine list. Has Sydney seen a more moreish dessert than brown butter mousse sandwiched between sheets of crisp potato? Party down.
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