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  • 17-19 Alberta St,
    Sydney, NSW
  • (02) 9264 6133,
  • Lunch Fri noon-3pm

    Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-11pm

-33.877871, 151.210591

Squirrelled away in a dim, skinny street at the city's fringe, the glow of Berta is your reward for a little searching. The focus on off-beat Italian vino is as tight here as ever - continuing in the mod-Italian way of its siblings, Surry Hills micro-wine bars 121BC and Vini - while the sharing menu is trussed firmly to the seasons. Summer's sweetest tomatoes, watermelon, basil and black olives come together in a salad in January, alongside kingfish crudo with cucumber and fried capers, while in July the brassicas and braised meats take over. Caramelised lamb ribs with fennel are cut by sharp house pickles, and a crisp-edged fontina risotto cake finds a foil in the crunch of pickled fennel and snappy peas. The finish is an ode to seasonal fruit: a slice of gelato with coconut, apricot and meringue. Don't miss the Tuesday night sagra dinners (four courses, $55), each a stunning celebration of a single ingredient.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • One glass
  • Price:
  • E $10-$22

    M $26-$45

    D $3-$13

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • O Tama Carey



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