REVIEW
The namesake humble concrete brick favoured by Italian-Australians building their suburban dreams in the ’70s is a trigger for long lost memories at this friendly eatery: of backyard gatherings, family meals, the comfort of home. They’re good memories, and the sense of fun is evident in a floor painted lawn-green, the retro plastic chairs, and in a simple menu of share dishes served on enamel plates. A crew of flat-capped, waistcoated waiters keeps the party humming and the wine flowing – the functional list includes eight on tap. The spirit of an archetypal nonna is evoked in rich, moreish meatballs, a simple, well-made ragù with tagliatelle, and an unpretty but satisfying dish of wet polenta marbled with radicchio and Gorgonzola. Arrive early for a batch of 6.30pm risotto, served at seven. Stay late for dessert, likely to be a highlight of the menu: a homely plum and polenta cake, say, or an un-nonna-like chilli chocolate fondant.
Phone:
(02) 9331 1611
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Bar
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair Access
Outdoor dining
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Sandro Di Marino & Mark Zavone
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
