Lunch daily noon-3pm
Dinner daily 6pm-11pm
Café Di Stasio represents the ideal of dining as a particularly adult pleasure. The experience starts entering a room that's as dark, theatrical and strangely moving as the Bill Henson photograph on the wall, and continues with the dance of white-jacketed waiters of long standing. The menu has always expressed continuity with Italian tradition rather than the ego of any chef. These are simple, good, familiar things, done exceedingly well. Angelhair pasta with spanner crab is a typical example, glossed with a prawn bisque in place of olive oil for a deep Italian umami effect. Classics such as veal cotoletta and porchetta - the latter sweetened smartly by a sage-topped baked apple - both achieve the crisp surfaces one desires. Millefoglie, with layers of light pastry, vanilla cream and caramelised apple, makes for an elegant ending. For the finest Negroni south of the river, try Bar Di Stasio next door.
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