Lunch Thu-Fri noon-2pm
Dinner Tue-Thu 6pm-9pm, Fri-Sat 6pm-9.30pm
When you're weary of share plates and can't face another oxidised wine, it's comforting to return to suburban stalwarts, replete with classically trained chefs, cordial waitstaff and a drinks list favouring food friendliness over fads. Cinco's adjoining Piccolo Pizza (and siblings) helps pay the bills, but it's the finer side of dining that motivates Peter Stubbs, and finesse is applied to every plate. An entrée of burrata sits on fat slices of fig with a fold of prosciutto, basil leaves and salsa verde for extra depth, served with buttery brioche-style toast to soak up the juices. Clam vichyssoise is a backdrop for snapper, two delicate fillets topped with pencil-thin pieces of zucchini and a tempura-battered zucchini flower. The eye-catching Moorish-patterned padded back wall ensures acoustics are subdued. So feel free to enthuse loudly about your dessert of mango sorbet and almond mousse, set panna cotta-like in a lightly perfumed plum and peach soup.