Cookie
Thai
Cookie
-37.811994,144.965251

The elegantly dishevelled Curtin House is a multifaceted vertical laneway with Cookie its unlikely beer-hall-meets-Thai-restaurant triumph. Come for the craft-hipster aesthetic - paper doilies, children's books, cartoony murals - and then stay for the culinary prowess of Karen Batson. Pad Thai, with its authentic smokiness and tang, answers any skepticism that Cookie is more about booze than food, while meaty baked scallops are smartly balanced with heat, herbaceousness and the subtle sweetness of pomelo. The most fiery dish is the jungle curry: pinkish strips of duck breast set in a red curry with apple eggplants, baby corn, and Malabar spinach. Chill afterwards with an offbeat basil and lime-inflected panna cotta. Service here is reliably upbeat, while the 88-page wine list, broken up by region, is better annotated than most textbooks, and separate beer and cocktail lists aren't far behind. It's a must-do Melbourne experience.


You might also like:

Italian renaissance

Carlton, the Melbourne suburb that brought Italian cuisine a...

Atlas Dining, Melbourne review

Atlas Dining transports diners to a new culinary destination...

At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Three glasses
  • Price:
  • E $11-$27

    M $20-$44

    D $14

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Vegetarian
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Karen Batson

MOST VIEWED IN OUR RESTAURANT GUIDE

Smolt

Hobart, TAS
Smolt is the Volvo of Hobart restaurants: always reliable, without making a fuss. Secure ...

Bar Lourinha

Melbourne, VIC
Turning 10 has added spring to Bar Lourinha's step. Not that this perennially crowded fav...

Da Noi

Melbourne, VIC
First-timers should know a couple of things about Da Noi. First, there's no menu. Second,...

Esquire

Brisbane, QLD
Esquire isn't a restaurant for everyone. Control freaks, for instance, won't like letting...

Aubergine

Griffith, ACT
The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, but certainly not jaded, rock st...

1889 Enoteca

Brisbane, QLD
There's no better place in Brisbane to enjoy regional classics and seek out exciting, low...

Bistrode CBD

Sydney, NSW
Chef Jeremy Strode began his career washing dishes at 14. His journey to Bistrode CBD has...

Press Food & Wine

Adelaide, SA
Occupying a former printing house, Press specialises in meat hot off the wood-fired grill...
get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×