Lunch Fri-Tue 11.30am-3pm
After a couple of years at sea, the dining at Cullen is approaching the same league as its highly regarded wining. The catalyst for this comeback? Colin Anderson, a recently arrived Quay alumnus with a knack for taking choice produce, much of it biodynamic and grown on site, and turning it into colourful odes to seasonal eating. Dainty pieces of quail on a risotto-like bed of burnt corn scores highly for taste and technique, while a painterly arrangement of sliced Gracetown kingfish, baby coriander and fermented daikon is typical of Anderson's fondness for bright, acidic flavours. Smoked eggplant, mint and saffron put a Middle-Eastern slant on lamb rump. Despite the kitchen's new direction, some aspects remain unchanged. The stone and timber building feels as country-casual as ever, service remains easy-going but informed, and homely desserts such as honey mousse and Bahen & Co chocolate pot showcase ingredients simply.
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