Lunch Fri noon-3pm, Dinner daily 6pm-10pm
If you like to be able to hear yourself drink, Eightysix isn't the restaurant for you. But if you like your dining with a side of electricity and an extra helping of buzz, few other restaurants in the capital can match it. The menu is eclectic - light on truly groundbreaking ideas, perhaps, but strong on execution - so you'll be using prawn crackers to scoop up steak tartare, given a fruity spiciness with habanero peppers, in one course, savouring the lightness of lemon ricotta gnocchi, golden from the pan and tossed with asparagus tips and goat's cheese the next. Main courses are hefty: beefy cheeks braised in master stock with a mostly successful East-West accompaniment of pear and fennel, for instance, or blackened chicken with a mass of buttermilk slaw. The dial is turned firmly to hip as far as the wine list, service and décor are concerned, but adding charm and substance to what might otherwise be an exercise in style is where Eightysix shines.
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