Lunch Fri noon-3pm
Dinner daily 6pm-10pm
An L-shaped dining space framing an open kitchen, unclothed tables, blackboard menus, waggish on-the ball staff - Eightysix comprises all the standard ingredients of a hip inner-city diner. But add a sense of adventure that inspires the well-executed food and European-leaning wine list, and it stands out well above the rest. It's fun and it's loud. The flavours are assertive and the servings generous. Everything shouts, including the customers. A share plate-driven, pick-and-mix approach produces bold combinations, such as spiced cauliflower, goat curd and dates, and "ghetto" beef with salsa verde. Top and tail with puffy, chilli-infused fish buns, and a summery passionfruit Eton mess that comes with the refreshing crunch of granita. If you're coveting what's heading for a nearby table - black chicken with buttermilk slaw, perhaps, or a comforting bowl of mashed spuds and gravy? - that's surely a good reason for another noisy visit.