Lunch Tue-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6.30pm-9pm
Esquire isn't a restaurant for everyone. Control freaks, for instance, won't like letting the kitchen choose the set-list, just as the hard-of-hearing will struggle with the acoustics of the stark room. The disengaged service, too, seems at odds with the restaurant's reputation. Yet, despite all this, Ryan Squires' bold cooking continues to lure eaters craving the cutting edge. Seafood is a strong point. An oversized prawn is served with a fermented lettuce leaf filled with green garlic and orange marmalade. Crumbed and char-grilled cuttlefish with finger lime and a slick of savoury mushroom sauce speak to an active kitchen imagination. Risk doesn't always equal reward: plum, macadamia milk and fenugreek oil tastes even less harmonious than it sounds, while ill-considered wine pairings jar. But then along comes a dazzling "strudel" comprising papery apple flakes, thyme and hay-infused cream to remind you how great this renegade can be.
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