29
Esquire
Modern Australian
  • 145 Eagle St,
    Brisbane, QLD
  • (07) 3220 2123,
    esquire.net.au
  • Lunch Tue-Fri noon-3pm

    Dinner Tue-Sat 6.30pm-9pm

Esquire
-27.466499,153.030555

Esquire isn't a restaurant for everyone. Control freaks, for instance, won't like letting the kitchen choose the set-list, just as the hard-of-hearing will struggle with the acoustics of the stark room. The disengaged service, too, seems at odds with the restaurant's reputation. Yet, despite all this, Ryan Squires' bold cooking continues to lure eaters craving the cutting edge. Seafood is a strong point. An oversized prawn is served with a fermented lettuce leaf filled with green garlic and orange marmalade. Crumbed and char-grilled cuttlefish with finger lime and a slick of savoury mushroom sauce speak to an active kitchen imagination. Risk doesn't always equal reward: plum, macadamia milk and fenugreek oil tastes even less harmonious than it sounds, while ill-considered wine pairings jar. But then along comes a dazzling "strudel" comprising papery apple flakes, thyme and hay-infused cream to remind you how great this renegade can be.


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • Two Stars
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • Lunch $60-$85

    Dinner $110-$150

     

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Vegetarian
    Wheelchair Access
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Ryan Squires & Brenden Gradidge

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