The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

Subscribe to Gourmet

Subscribe to Australian Gourmet Traveller and receive a free Gourmet Menus book - offer ends 26 February 2017.

Gourmet digital

Subscribe to Gourmet Traveller for your iPad or Android tablet.

29
Esquire
Modern Australian
  • 145 Eagle St,
    Brisbane, QLD
  • (07) 3220 2123,
    esquire.net.au
  • Lunch Tue-Fri noon-3pm

    Dinner Tue-Sat 6.30pm-9pm

Esquire
-27.466499,153.030555

Esquire isn't a restaurant for everyone. Control freaks, for instance, won't like letting the kitchen choose the set-list, just as the hard-of-hearing will struggle with the acoustics of the stark room. The disengaged service, too, seems at odds with the restaurant's reputation. Yet, despite all this, Ryan Squires' bold cooking continues to lure eaters craving the cutting edge. Seafood is a strong point. An oversized prawn is served with a fermented lettuce leaf filled with green garlic and orange marmalade. Crumbed and char-grilled cuttlefish with finger lime and a slick of savoury mushroom sauce speak to an active kitchen imagination. Risk doesn't always equal reward: plum, macadamia milk and fenugreek oil tastes even less harmonious than it sounds, while ill-considered wine pairings jar. But then along comes a dazzling "strudel" comprising papery apple flakes, thyme and hay-infused cream to remind you how great this renegade can be.


You might also like:

Brisbane’s Restaurant Two will close on Christmas Eve

Last drinks are called for Brisbane fine-diner Restaurant Tw...

Aquitaine Brasserie

The name is a nod to France's south-west gastronomic heartl...

At a glance

  • Food:
  • Two Stars
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • Lunch $60-$85

    Dinner $110-$150

     

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Vegetarian
    Wheelchair Access
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Ryan Squires & Brenden Gradidge

MOST VIEWED IN OUR RESTAURANT GUIDE

Salopian Inn

Mclaren Vale, SA
McLaren Vale had good reason to rejoice when Karena Armstrong took over the abandoned Sal...

Porteno

Sydney, NSW
Get the skirt steak. Sure, the fire-licked pork and lamb offerings from the asado pit are...

Attica

Melbourne, VIC
One of Ben Shewry's great strengths is his ability to transform the potentially hokey int...

10 William Street

Sydney, NSW
For all its artisanal focus, 10 William St is electric. Tables are cramped, the light is ...

Esquire

Brisbane, QLD
Esquire isn't a restaurant for everyone. Control freaks, for instance, won't like letting...

Est.

Sydney, NSW
The theatre starts with the room. Elegant banquettes, soaring columns, pressed-metal ceil...

Grossi Florentino

Melbourne, VIC
They don't make restaurants like this any more. The royal-blue carpets. The wood panellin...

Cafe Di Stasio

Melbourne, VIC
Cafe Di Stasio represents the ideal of dining as a particularly adult pleasure. The exper...
get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×