Lunch Fri noon-3pm, Sun noon-4pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
Just how does a restaurant achieve instant landmark status? In the case of Ester, perhaps it's been a matter of consistently underselling and overdelivering: all care and no fuss. Tables are unclothed, noise levels are set to a perpetual roar, and conviviality is the watchword. But there's nothing sloppy about the service, the wine list is electric, and the food makes a luxury of understatement. Start with oysters heated in the wood-fired oven just long enough to pop, then topped with horseradish, or a playful take on the sausage sandwich rendered in boudin noir and steamed bread. Details like house-made crisps with the tartare of beef and oysters, or just the simple quality of the bread they bake are matched by moments of flair and quiet daring, whether it's the offer of a wood-roasted kingfish head with nori tapenade, or the white-on-white brilliance of a young-coconut sorbet with sake for dessert. Definitive Sydney dining.