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Modern Australian
  • 46-52 Meagher St,
    Sydney, NSW
  • (02) 8068 8279,
  • Lunch Thu-Fri noon-3pm

    Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10.30pm



Kin to Vini, Berta and 121BC, Ester is the black sheep of the family. It's not Italian, for one thing, its cuisine centred instead on the possibilities of its domed woodfired oven. And what possibilities! Mat Lindsay's cooking is at once refined and effortless. Blood sausage on steamy white bread is playful in its update of the classic snag sandwich, but precise in its execution. There's elegant restraint in oysters roasted just long enough to pop the shells, then dressed with horseradish, while crisp saltbush is the gently brilliant flourish on butter-bathed ricotta gnudi. "Three milks" is clever without being showy, combining sheep's milk yoghurt foam, cow's milk panna cotta and goat's milk dulce de leche. At Ester, everyone involved, from the kitchen to the floor, seems invested in making it a success. There's buzz in the busy, bare-boned room, and brilliance in the wine list. It's an easy thing to get caught up in: surrender and profit. 

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • Two Stars
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $12-$26

    M $16-$36

    D $4-$12


  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
  • Cards:
  • Eftpos
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Mat Lindsay



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