Lunch Fri noon-3pm, Sun noon-4pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
Here's the game plan: book early for a late lunch on a Saturday or Sunday. Don't drive. Call for something interesting and natural from the wine list and make the most of the wood-fired oven straight off the bat with the potato bread. Dipped hot and smoky into the cool, briny relief of the dashi, cultured cream and salmon roe, it's almost as fine a way to start as the signature blood sausage "sanga" swaddled in steamed white bread. Calamari and lardo on a stick is both playful and satisfying, while shared main courses such as the hefty rib-eye cooked on the bone and served with anchovy butter highlight Mat Lindsay's keen grasp of when to leave well enough alone. The room? It's buzzy and fun, its bare-bones feel in keeping with the semi-industrial history of the neighbourhood. The warmth in the picture comes from on-message staff. Oh, and some of the city's most original desserts. Hello, wood-fired pavlova. Essential dining.