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Modern Australian

Gladioli is a country gem that truly celebrates a sense of place by sourcing choice local produce and fine wine - but it's not parochial. A warm, genuine welcome greets diners because owner-chef Matt Dempsey heads front-of-house these days. He's natural and unpretentious, much like the comfortable, stylish dining area of this Victorian weatherboard, but there is detail, too, especially in his complex, inventive dishes. Local seafood becomes a glistening mix of finely sliced cuttlefish and fennel, bolstered by tangy pickled octopus and cumin; slow-cooked Barwon lamb might be enhanced by a garlicky wild nettle purée, some tart and lightly whipped yoghurt, and a layer of crunchy breadcrumbs infused with parmesan. The combination of chocolate cream with sweet-sour rhubarb sauce, cardamom marshmallows and the grainy texture of crystallised white chocolate is an equally creative finish.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • One glass
  • Price:
  • Prix fixe 3 courses $65; dégustations $85-$110

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Chris Welsh & Ryan Vickery



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