The February issue

Our clean eating issue is out now, packed with super lunch bowls, gluten-free desserts and more - including our cruising special, covering all luxury on the seas.

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Recipes by Christine Manfield
21.02.2017

As the '90s dawned, darling chefs were pushing the boundaries of cooking in this country. A young Christine Manfield, just starting out at this heady time, soon became part of the generation that redefined modern Australian cuisine. She shares some of her timeless signatures from the era.

Cirrus, Sydney review
20.02.2017

Cirrus moves the Bentley team down to the water and into more lighthearted territory without sacrificing polish, writes Pat Nourse.

How to grow rocket
20.02.2017

A vegetable patch without rocket lacks a great staple, according to Mat Pember. The perennial performer is a leaf for all seasons.

50BestTalks brings World’s best chefs to Sydney and Melbourne
16.02.2017

Massimo Bottura and more are coming to the Sydney Opera House.

Toby Wilson, Sean McManus and Jon Kennedy to open Bad Hombres
16.02.2017

Expect Mexican-Asian flavours and an all-natural wine list from two of Sydney’s edgier operators.

Local Knowledge: Moscow
16.02.2017

Director of Shakespeare theatre company Cheek by Jowl Declan Donnellan walks us through the essential sights and his favourite cafes and restaurants of his hometown.

On the Pass: Danielle Rensonnet
16.02.2017

Bellota chef Danielle Rensonnet talks us through the current menu at the restaurant and her favourite summer ingredients.

Melbourne's Tomato Festival is back in 2017
15.02.2017

Returning for another year, Melbourne’s Tomato Festival is ripe with cooking demonstrations, talks, and produce stalls dedicated to plump produce.

Longrain
Thai
  • 85 Commonwealth St,
    Surry Hills,
    Sydney, NSW
  • (02) 9280 2888,
    longrain.com/
  • Lunch Fri noon-2.30pm;

    Dinner Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Sat 5.30pm-11.30pm, Sun 5.30pm-10pm

     

Longrain
-33.87918,151.210742

Oh, Longrain, can it really have been 17 years already? You take bookings now, and what was the bar when you first opened is now home to large booths, so the dining is no longer strictly communal. Your service is a mix of switched-on and cursory, and you're as loud as bustling as ever, but in the past decade, Thai Town has swelled and grown only blocks away, and its food makes what you serve now often seem unbalanced by sweetness in comparison. But we love the one-bite punch of ma hor, sticky balls of pork, prawn and peanut set on shards of sour pineapple, the contrast of fat and lean in five-spicy caramelised pork hock, and the beautifully cloud-like texture of salt-and-pepper tofu just the same. Desserts are, yes, quite sugary; the smart drinks list brings greater reward. More bass and treble from chilli heat, the funk of ferment and the brightness of acid could bring welcome sparkle to the tune, but for now we're still tapping along.


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At a glance

  • Wine:
  • One glass
  • Price:
  • E $6-$29

    M $16-$38

    D $5-$16

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Vegetarian
    Wheelchair Access
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Diners Club
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Jin Hironaga

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