Lunch Fri noon-2.30pm;
Dinner Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Sat 5.30pm-11.30pm, Sun 5.30pm-10pm
Oh, Longrain, can it really have been 17 years already? You take bookings now, and what was the bar when you first opened is now home to large booths, so the dining is no longer strictly communal. Your service is a mix of switched-on and cursory, and you're as loud as bustling as ever, but in the past decade, Thai Town has swelled and grown only blocks away, and its food makes what you serve now often seem unbalanced by sweetness in comparison. But we love the one-bite punch of ma hor, sticky balls of pork, prawn and peanut set on shards of sour pineapple, the contrast of fat and lean in five-spicy caramelised pork hock, and the beautifully cloud-like texture of salt-and-pepper tofu just the same. Desserts are, yes, quite sugary; the smart drinks list brings greater reward. More bass and treble from chilli heat, the funk of ferment and the brightness of acid could bring welcome sparkle to the tune, but for now we're still tapping along.