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Matteo's
Modern Australian
  • 533 Brunswick St,
    Fitzroy North,
    Melbourne, VIC
  • (03) 9481 1177,
    www.matteos.com.au
  • Lunch Sun-Fri noon-3pm;

    Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm

     

Matteo's
-37.791167,144.979472

Despite its name and appearance, Matteo's is not Italian. This is as true now that chef Kah-wai Lo has taken the reins as it was during predecessor Brendan McQueen's 10-year stint, during which he introduced an Asian-influenced edge to the menu. Lo seems to be playing from the same song sheet. Entrées are impressive, inventive and generous, from Mooloolaba spanner crab with yuzu mayonnaise, pickled shallots, dashi jelly and Avruga to a Japanese seafood platter starring a Balmain bug tail enveloped in fried nori brushed with five-spice Sichuan salt. Main courses can over-sprawl, but there's ambition and pleasure in Chinese-roasted duck breast, presented with a disc of duck neck sausage and a kerchief of bresaola, and lent sweetness by corn in puréed, grilled and baby forms. The Eureka nugget, comprised of a peanut butter parfait, salted-caramel ice-cream, chocolate brownie and honeycomb, layers richness on richness. A towering delight. 


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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $20-$25

    M $38-$44

    D $20;

    dégustation $115

     

  • Feature:
  • BYO
    Licensed
    Vegetarian
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Kah-wai Lo

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