Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Thu 6pm-10.30pm
Good Burgundy by the glass. It's almost enough just to leave it at that, but the trimmings count. The painted brickwork, leather-backed chairs lining the marble bar, the sepia glow of the room - these all enrich the pleasure of a fishbowl-like glass of Beaune as the stars brighten the night sky. Bistro French is Montrachet's focus, but it's not doctrinaire. Caper mayonnaise, wafers of fried potato, dill, apple and cucumber frame a fat sliver of cured Huon salmon, while the sparkle of finger lime and crunch of cereals are incorporated into pan-roasted scallops and cauliflower in a foamy brown butter sauce. Odd blobs of citrus goo don't flatter a fillet of trevalla in a mussel stock-based sauce Normande, but a zucchini flower stuffed with saffron rice makes an imaginative complement. Service and pacing is more Brisbane-breezy than Paris bustle, but the regulars, swirling their glasses, don't seem to mind in the slightest.