Lunch Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm;
Dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm-11pm
Have you had Bent Street's roast chicken? Do yourself a favour. Mike "Kitchen by Mike" McEnearney uses his splendid ironwood-fired oven to roast his birds golden and juicy. He slices the breasts, dresses them with the roasting juices, then tosses the wing and leg with green beans, toasty hazelnuts, sweetly tender leek and chives in a bracing vinaigrette. A win. But, then, so too is the chicken liver pâté, spooned tableside from a large bowl and served with four-spiced salt. And the grilled squid with beans and coarse, spicy chorizo. And the apple tarte fine. Just as the space is unpretentious (and loud) but far from rustic, the menu is composed with an unfussy finesse that McEnearney, who held three stars for Rockpool when he was its head chef, executes with rare confidence. Service? Fine. Wine? Good. The street may be bent, but the return of McEnearney to the CBD is a straight-up win for lovers of honest, intelligent eating.