Lunch Tue-Sat noon-2pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm
Classic French bistro cuisine gets a Mod Oz makeover in a former Belgian beer bar. It sounds like a recipe for confusion, but former Sage chef Damien Brabender makes it cohesive. An Antipodean take on steak tartare stands out - the earthy qualities of salted wallaby complemented by pickled vine leaves, macadamia floss and a smoky burnt-onion emulsion - while sheep's curd provides the acidity that ties together the unlikely pairing of raw tuna and watermelon cut into identical cubes. Rump of local lamb is well matched by the spice of an eggplant purée and tart heirloom tomatoes, while a take on a Magnum, with lemon and meringue, celebrates the corner shop as much as the bistro. There's comfort and atmosphere, thanks to broad leather dining chairs, plenty of wood panelling and Art Deco fittings. The floor team is polite and enthusiastic if not entirely polished, and the focused wine list showcases Canberra's best.