7am-10pm, Sun 7am-3pm
Ten years on, this pioneering gem punches well above its nominal café status - even at breakfast, when your omelette might arrive loaded with local spanner crab. As the sun sets, proceedings ratchet up further. Uplights accentuate the narrow, bistro-style room with its raw brickwork and bentwood chairs. A clipped but clever wine list offers by-the-glass enticement and personable staff make well-informed pairing suggestions. A meaty, lightly charred tentacle of Fremantle octopus unfussily curled around a salad of shaved fennel and grapefruit typifies Pearl's no-ego, produce-led philosophy, the salad's liquorice-citrus notes complementing the briny flesh. Roast chicken benefits from the same no-fuss approach, its skin well seasoned and crisp, the flesh juicy and gently flavoured with thyme. Baked delights grace the bar, but berries with marshmallow-soft meringue, ginger granita and lemon cream present an even finer finish.
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