The Paris issue

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Modern Australian

The anchovy with its fried bones is a must, particularly when teamed with Sherry. It's an ode to simplicity, ingenuity and heaven-sent food and wine pairings, but also an excellent overture for what's next. Owner-chef Michael Ryan's food alludes to Asia and Europe, deftly combining apparently disparate ingredients into coherent, often inspiring dishes bursting with flavour and balance. Lamb, glazed with soy, miso and mirin, is teamed with nashi pear, blue cheese and charred radicchio. Cured and smoked mackerel shelters under slivers of radish sprinkled with purslane and dessert limes. Apricot mousse shares space with a rockmelon granita, frozen grapes and pickled rose petals. The wine list, assembled by Ryan's winemaker wife, Jeanette Henderson, is similarly bracing, spouting great local labels and exclusively imported sake, while the service is impeccable. Add a cosily sophisticated room and you have one for the bucket list.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • Two Stars
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • 2 courses $63, 3 courses $80, dégustation $105

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Outdoor dining
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings essential
  • Chef:
  • Michael Ryan



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