Michael Ryan's love affair with Japan is writ large across Provenance. It's there in the wood-block prints that grace the walls of the former bank, and the sake, plum wine and whisky that punctuate an otherwise local drinks list. But it's Ryan's keen understanding of Japanese restraint and respect for the seasons that makes Provenance such a singular dining experience. Soft-set tofu is made from soy milk that was pressed that afternoon, seasoned with prawn, spring onion and ginger. The richness of soy-braised beef intercostals is cleverly cut with daikon, pickled radish and grapefruit, while the earthiness of salty smoked pork jowl is enhanced by a warming ginger and soy milk sauce. Desserts balance temperatures and textures with aplomb, as with the feather-light frozen fennel meringue with hazelnut panna cotta and candied apple. With boutique accommodation in the old stables out back, this is destination dining at its best.
2 courses $68
3 courses $88