REVIEW
Fresh from a stint at Maxwell Wines’ Ellen Street Restaurant, chef Tom Boden has a new home among the vines and paddocks at Penny’s Hill. In keeping with the rural vibe, Boden’s food is honest, rustic and bound to sate the hungriest of appetites. A slab of slow-roasted lamb is meltingly tender and delicious with eggplant, chickpea and roast cumin seeds; pork belly is an equally generous serve, teamed simply with chunks of carrot and a handful of dill. There’s more finesse in a stack of apple cucumber, smoked kingfish and pink grapefruit topped with a perfectly charred king prawn. Tempura-style zucchini flowers are light and fresh on a salad of pickled zucchini and baked ricotta. It all adds up to a hearty lunch, although more variety on a list heavy on Penny’s Hill wines would be a welcome touch. Crème anglaise is the star of a strawberry summer trifle, while fuzzy peach wedges on clotted cream seal the deal on perfectly turned-out tart.
Phone:
(08) 8557 0840
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
BYO
Licensed
Bar
Wheelchair Access
Outdoor dining
Private room
Accepted card types:
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Tom Boden
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
