Lunch Mon-Fri noon-3pm
Dinner Mon-Fri 5.30pm-10pm
It's within cooee of Queen Street Mall, but this laneway bolthole feels coolly out of step with it. Moodily lit with an industrial-chic interior featuring brick, leather hides and brass, there are nooks aplenty to dally in, including a quirky courtyard behind. Even the wine list is character-filled - a "reserve, vintage and obscure" selection sees aged Burgundy mixing it with Aussie fiano and Hungarian Tokay. Modish enamelled plates may not impress everyone, but when they bring octopus terrine offset by tart chardonnay jelly, salmon pearls and fennel, who cares? Pork variations feature in a death-row meal: roast pork, pork sausage and a pork farce-filled battered zucchini flower. Barramundi is lighter, topped with salt and vinegar crisps and on a creamy cauliflower base. Service is slick and sweets are, well, sweet, especially a nutty riff on millefeuille featuring chocolate-dipped banana, hazelnut ice-cream and caramel.