Dinner Thu-Sat 6pm-9pm
Urbane (adjective): Refined, polished and courteous. See also the showpiece restaurant of the Urbane Group, a suitably hushed, clean-cut dining room at the core of their Mary Street fortress. Dining here calls for a little perseverance (limited opening hours, dégustation-only, credit card details required to confirm a booking), but Alejandro Cancino's meticulous cooking ensures the effort is handsomely rewarded. Although the chef works wonders with flesh - perfectly tender wagyu beef, for instance - it's his plant-based creations that impress the most. Pea and buckwheat grains bound as a thick "risotto" and enhanced with gherkin powder, nasturtiums and green olives taste as striking as they look. Roasted cauliflower dressed with a Thai-style coconut soup strikes a blow for cosmopolitan thinking and cooking. Reverential service and well-chosen, mostly European wines underscore Urbane's merited reputation.