Dinner Thu-Sat 6pm-9pm
Yes, this dégustation-only destination opens only three nights in seven. But if reduced access is the trade-off for such precision and creativity, we're on board. A fleet of snacks starts proceedings: for omnivores, perhaps duck tongues and salty caramelised barramundi belly, while vegans score a puck of kimchi and a pickled mushroom treat masquerading as a mussel in a black quinoa shell. Salt and vinegar saltbush with tomato tea and a vegan shiitake consommé topped with porcini foam will impress any faction. Bigger dishes include cobia served with black garlic and a creamy pil pil sauce, and corn tortellini filled with smoky vegan sesame cheese. Wine-matching is advised, but there are ample cellar quirks for diners preferring to freewheel. Service has a grace suited to the room's gallery-like character. For dessert, lacy cookies become brittle frameworks for liqueur coffee ice-cream and jelly with almond cream and coconut caramel. World class.