Lunch Fri noon-3pm;
Dinner Mon-Fri 6pm-9.30pm, Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm
You could plan your Italian holiday from this shoebox-sized spot. Shelves packed with bottles, blackboard-lined walls chalked with wines, every quirky nook and cranny of Italy covered. Come on a Tuesday for a four-course regional menu and make more notes for that trip of yours. On other days, the short, seasonal menu darts around the country, evoking family gatherings in sun-dappled courtyards. Kick off with rouge de Marmande tomato with pancetta, burrata and cayenne, a soupy, cheesy mix mopped up with crusty bread. Move on to maltagliati with braised pork and peppers, finished with eggs and rosemary. Then a slow-roast - sirloin in chunky slices, with Dutch creams and rainbow chard lemony with sorrel. To finish, few can resist the panna cotta with caramel and almonds or the chocolate tart, but should you pass, focus on the blackboard grappa list or ask the good-natured staff for advice. Their knowledge, like their service, is spot-on.
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