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Dinner Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight
For all its artisanal focus, 10 William St is electric. Tables are cramped, the light is dim and it's as noisy as hell, but who gives a damn when you're dipping crunchy pretzels into a light, smooth and salty anchovy dip, sipping a glass of funky orange wine from Friuli and bellowing into the ear of the new pal you just met at the bar? Dan Pepperell's menu is made for eating with a glass in one hand. Thick slabs of charred bread spread with sweet tomato and topped with plump sardines and a dusting of fried chopped black olives, perhaps, or beef carpaccio with peppery radish layered on a smudge of crème fraîche, coming apart at the nudge of a fork. Or the odd wildcard: mangosteens paired (successfully) with scallops and lardo. The service is jovial and knowledgeable; the wine list features an impressive selection from Italy's regions, and some great French bottles. This is Italian dining, sure, but not like nonna knows it.
Photography: Chris Chen
Shared plates $10-$32
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