Anchovy: Restaurant review

Like its namesake fish, Anchovy is small – almost miniscule – but packs a mighty punch. Steeped in the joyful self-determination of the chef-owner restaurant, this playful mix of Southeast Asian (mostly Vietnamese) traditions with classical technique equates to the untranslatable brilliance of Thi Le's cooking. Pickled mussels dressed in the funky-fresh crunch of a sambal matah busy with lemongrass and shallot set the scene for a big-flavoured parade, while skewers of beef tongue doused in soy caramel offer shade and light, the meat charry and sweet. Whole flounder lolling in piquant Manchurian butter with only artichokes for company is pearly fleshed perfection (order the "herb garden" side featuring pickles, leaves and cold bánh hỏi noodles for a DIY mash-up) and hold the course all the way through to dessert, when a durian parfait tempered with white chocolate and lemon sorbet becomes a gateway drug for the unfairly maligned fruit. A low-fi operation (co-owner Jia-Yen Lee works the floor with one offsider) with a bottle list equally at home with the quirk, Anchovy is the neighbourhood favourite worth crossing town for.

Phone:
(03) 9428 3526

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Chef:
Thi Le