Restaurant Guide

Pilot: Restaurant review

Pilot chef Malcolm Hanslow and owners Ross McQuinn and Dash Rumble.

Address

Shop 5/6 Wakefield Gardens, Ainslie

Hours

Lunch Sun noon-3.30pm;
Dinner Wed-Sat 6pm-10.30pm

Prices

E $14-$26
M $34-$46
D $15;
Chef's menu $90

Pilot is a restaurant by the people for the people. One where two ambitious owners run the floor with grace and surety, and a talented young chef, Malcolm Hanslow, sends out plates that break good ideas down to their constituent parts and reassemble them in new, exciting ways. A potato salad, perhaps, that eats less like barbecue stodge and more like a refined Waldorf, made up of a jumble of radish, celery, and a coil of green apple dressed with potato cream and chives. Or cacio e pepe come via Japan with roasted-buckwheat noodles tossed through a sauce of buttery caramelised cabbage thick with parmesan and warm with black pepper. Or roast chicken in a sharp, savoury jus served with kombu mayo and steamed bread. Wines skew fresh, light and white. Snacks land hot, crisp and right on the money. While ceramics and glassware made in town, coffee from ACT roasters Barrio, and fruit and vegetables sourced from nearby growers double down on the local angle. The result? A restaurant for the here and now, that's right at the forefront of where capital dining is headed.
Phone:
(02) 6257 4334
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian friendly
Accepted card types:
  • American Express
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa
Chef(s):
Malcolm Hanslow
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
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