Will Horner
REVIEW
Where many bistros might see pork and think roast or belly, chef Nicholas Hill and the skilful team at Porcine see smoked hams and jowls, rillettes, pâté en croute and other bouchon staples. Not to mention the chance to employ classic French technique and charge the cooking with as much fun and theatre as fat. Creton, for instance — a coarse Quebecois pâté made of pork shoulder, liver and lard — is fresh and zesty thanks to vinegary Puy lentils and crème fraîche. Beyond le porc, vegetables and game shine. Darlings of the Jura, Comté and vin jaune, play beautifully with foraged pine and grey ghost mushrooms in a malty gratin. Garlicky whole roasted pigeon, meanwhile, glistens in sticky Madeira sauce (marrow on toast, a finger bowl and bottle of sappy Adelaide Hills cab franc, all elegant accompaniments). With passionate staff, an inventive oft-changing menu and good humour to boot, Porcine is the perfect excuse to be piggish.
ABOUT
Porcine
French
268 Oxford St, Paddington, NSW
0423 015 032
Chef Nik Hill
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Thu-Sat
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
