Restaurant Reviews

Amaru: Restaurant review

Amaru

Address

Shop 5, 1121 High St
Armadale, Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Lunch Fri-Sat noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-9pm

Prices

Dégustations $115-$170

REVIEW

Clinton McIver's four- and eight-course dégustations are ready for their close-ups. Arriving on hand-shaped crockery, combinations like smoked duck ham curled along a length of crisp fermented carrot or slivers of shiitake and chawanmushi drifting in a sparkling broth are as good-looking as they are well balanced. Sourdough bread is a course in itself, its impressive depth of flavour matched by cultured butter and unfiltered olive oil mixed with malted-beer honey. Desserts, such as a playfully deconstructed cheesecake, threaten to steal the show with their not-too-sweet complexity. Service is as smooth and comforting as the upholstered dining room while the drinks list includes a small yet impressive selection of sake, alongside evenly balanced Euro and Aussie labels. Amaru is smooth but it's an equally interesting and intelligent operator, too.

Phone:
(03) 9822 0144

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Vegetarian-friendly
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Clinton McIver

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.