Down the rabbit hole we go – past the room of scent-squirters and 360-degree animated projections, into a dining space that resembles a mad museum of artifacts. This is d'Arenberg in wonderland, a cubeshaped glass-and-steel tower within a vineyard, conjuring equal parts madness and magic in long dégustation lunches. Grapes made of foie gras. "Bush coals" comprising ash-coated bites of barramundi with a lick of vegemite mayonnaise. Whimsy dances with humour in inventive dishes that are consistently delicious, especially hibachi-grilled eel brushed with pork fat and seasoned with furikake. Sommelier Joshua Picken has built an extraordinary list of global desirables, and the most interesting of three tasting-flight options pits d'Arenberg wines against the rest of the world. It requires willingness to engage in sensory overload, but the rewards are great through all 11 courses.
(08) 8329 4888
- Private room
- Wheelchair friendly
Brendon Wessels & Lindsay Dürr
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
2019 Top 100 Rank - #51
Gourmet Traveller's star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers' first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant's wine list. View our rating key here.