From the unpronounceable name to the conspicuous lack of signage, Dier Makr doesn't make it easy. Stopping by this venue run by young Melbourne treechangers means playing by their rules: namely, a dégustation-only menu backed by wines set firmly to the low-intervention end of the dial. Lucky, then, that chef Kobi Ruzicka and partner Sarah Fitzsimmons, running the floor with pet-nat verve, have talent to burn. The open kitchen - just a grill, really - is laughably small, but produces dishes of arresting originality. Just-seared mussels dabbed in chicken fat in a froth of mizuna-spiked golden ale with smoked almonds strike a note for innovation; slivers of wallaby double down on native ingredients with a local thyme-infused sauce and charred onions. Equally a place to hit for snacks and cocktails made with house-infused spirits, it's an original package in a world of encroaching sameness (and for the record, it's pronounced die-er make-er).
(03) 6288 8910
Accepted card types:
- American Express
- Diners Club
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.