Restaurant Reviews

Donovans: Restaurant review

Donovans

Address

40 Jacka Blvd
St Kilda, Melbourne, VIC

Hours

Lunch daily noon-3.30pm
Dinner daily 6pm-10.30pm

Prices

E $22-$30
M $34-$65
D $15-$24

REVIEW

"Easy" might be the best way to describe Donovans. Staff greet you like old friends on arrival at their beach house. Wines are poured with care and conviviality and there's plenty to love by the glass. Go in the early evening. The curtains may be drawn - the reflection off the sand into the dining room is blinding - but you won't mind. You'll be occupied by a twist of smoked salmon with a buttery oversized blin, roe and pickled cucumber, perhaps, or by tuna tartare boosted with horseradish and anchovy. The garlicky pan juices are spooned over sizzling lamb shoulder at the table, but feeling this looked-after can come at a hefty price. There's magic here in spades, though: in a snappy buttermilk salad, the charming service, the sitting room with fireplace. Rollerbladers whiz past on the Esplanade as a chocolate-hazelnut bombe Alaska for two (ahem, four) hits the table. After a 20-plus year tenure by the sea, Donovans is still very easy to like.

Phone:
(03) 9534 8221

Bookings:
Bookings essential

Features:

  • Licensed
  • Bar
  • Wheelchair Access
  • Private room
  • Impressive Wine List

Accepted card types:

  • American Express
  • Diners Club
  • Eftpos
  • MasterCard
  • Visa

Chef(s):
Emma D'Alessandro

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.