Cassie Abraham
“All of it is fun, not all of it is serious,” reads the preface to Such and Such’s on-the-pulse drinks list. “Also, all of it yum.” You could say the same about the free-wheeling cooking, too, which leaps across borders with whimsy. There’s a nod to the Levant in the slick of toum on crumpet-like sourdough flatbread; a gesture to Neapolitan acqua pazza in a brothy tumble of salmon, mussels, semi-dried tomatoes and al dente beans. Unthinkably juicy roast duck on the crown, meanwhile, owes as much to China and France as it does to Kylie Kwong, finished with blood plums and a resonant fish-sauce caramel. The concept, look and feel may well be loose-knit, but the vision is clear and the focus just as tight. Pilot’s more casual, colourful sequel has come in hot and, much like its older sibling, looks poised to become one of the Territory’s quintessential dining addresses.
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national guide.
