Hotel restaurants must cater to all tastes and often the result is a menu that neither offends nor delights. The Argus is not such a restaurant, yet it offers the pluses of 1930s hotel dining - the grand entrance, the sense of occasion. Chef David Willcocks reboots expectations from the get-go with a raw amuse-bouche: daikon enclosing enoki with a ginger emulsion. To follow, cured rainbow trout with fermented cabbage and crème fraîche, or pressed pig's head with scallops and piccalilli. The bold approach continues through main courses of bloody-rare lamb loin with kofta, sheep's milk and spiced carrot purée, and in punches of flavour alongside a snapper fillet: soy-butter cubes, salty squid curls, blackbean sauce. The hefty wine list has a section headed "Weird Ones" alongside benchmark Heathcote shiraz. Service is warm and professional right to the end - parsnip ice-cream, burnt-honey jelly and medlar custard.
(03) 5348 4199
- Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
- American Express
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.