About a decade ago, merlot was set to be the Next Big Thing: more approachable, softer tannins than the notoriously sturdy cabernet sauvignon, more elegant than that brute, shiraz. Most merlot plants in Australian vineyards, however, are a poor clone of the variety; much was planted in too-hot climates, and many producers ‘over-make’ it (over-cropped fruit plus too much new oak, masking varietal flavour), so the grape hasn’t lived up to expectations. But there is a handful of excellent Australian merlots – most from cooler regions – with the right qualities to match this delicious lamb with currants and pinenuts: medium-bodied reds with firm but supple tannins, aromas of dried herbs and dark currants, and a fleshy, plummy red fruit texture in the mouth. – Max Allen
Seek out a well-crafted Australian merlot from cooler regions to bring out the best in this fragrant lamb dish.
2.Preheat oven to 200C. Place lamb skin-side down on a bench, spread over stuffing, roll up tightly, secure with twine and place in a roasting pan. Rub with 2 tbsp oil and season to taste. Roast for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 180C and roast for 1 hour for medium. Cover with foil and rest for 10 minutes.
3.Heat remaining oil in a large frying pan over medium heat, add garlic and cook for 1 minute or until golden. Add silverbeet stems and cook for 5 minutes or until tender, then add leaves and cook for another 5 minutes or until wilted. Add rind and nutmeg and season to taste. To serve, slice lamb thinly and serve with silverbeet and lemon wedges.
