No one who lived through it will ever forget the 15-day heatwave that struck Adelaide in March 2008. The local vignerons will certainly relive the memory for a long time to come: the heat resulted in overripe, tasteless grapes. Before the heatwave, however, most vineyards were ripening perfectly and quality was excellent. In some regions, such as the Clare Valley, much of the riesling crop had already been picked before the heat, and the best wines taste wonderful right now. The spanking-fresh flavours of young Clare Valley riesling are a great match for the clean freshness of squid; the grape usually has a herbal, fennel-like lift, which matches well with the herbs in this dish, as do the variety's trademark zestiness and the tart little pomegranate seeds. Riesling can handle a bit of heat, too, so the harissa mayonnaise lifts the overall flavour combination. - MAX ALLEN
Despite a drought-affected season, this light and zesty white is just the drink for summer seafood salads.