North Sydney is garnering attention for being more than a CBD and private school enclave, with the arrival of four swish new venues. Executive chef Rhys Connell (ex-The Gantry and Sepia) spearheads the precinct, alongside head of pastry Rhiann Mead (also The Charles). The Etymon group has become known for delivering slick concepts with rising talent at the forefront, first delivering Loulou Bistro in the nearby Milsons Point, The Charles in the CBD and Poetica, also in North Sydney. The four new venues have also opened just in time for the arrival of the Metro Rail line which will offer easy, fast travel to the northern CBD come August.
The headline venue is Soluna, a 200-seat restaurant that takes cues from the bright lights and sunshine of Los Angeles. The three-in-one spot offers an indoor-outdoor cocktail bar, a dining room and a sundrenched courtyard. Working alongside Rhys Connell, head chef Keno Perlas (ex-Margaret and Monopole) takes inspiration from LA’s melting pot of culinary influences, from the Mediterranean through to Asia and the Middle East. This translates to a vast array of dishes: from pressed prawn toast to falafels with cream cheese and chilli; or seared scallops with macadamia purée and plum; to grilled coral trout with grilled peppers and a chilli garlic crunch.
You’ll also find the neon-lit Genzo, a relaxed Japanese restaurant focusing on robata-grilled goods. Here an open kitchen looks out to a combined 28-seat cocktail bar (with a dedicated temperature-controlled sake room) and dining room. Head chef Tuan Colombo draws upon his time at Sokyo Sydney and Nobu London to craft a menu punctuated by one-bite snacks and skewers, with both traditional Japanese and ingredients from around the globe.
There’s avocado and Vegemite on a crisp rice cake; tempura shiitake mushrooms with ponzu; and umeboshi and stracciatella onigiri topped with yellowfin tuna. Grilled skewers include chicken thigh and onion; chicken skin with pink pepper; marbled Blackmore wagyu glazed with yuzu-koshu and wrapped in a Tasmanian wasabi leaf; and pork belly with an apple-spiked teriyaki sauce. There’s also roast duck soba noodles, okonomiyaki, and a curious Italian-Japanese dish mash-up that combines spaghetti all’Assassina (a crisp tomato spaghetti dish) made with ramen noodles.
Then there’s Sol Bread and Wine, a transitional bakery-bar. In the morning, artisanal breads (from sourdough to Roman cream-filled buns), pastries (including a laminated dough maple pecan number and a baklava croissant), cakes and tarts fill the counter, which can be enjoyed takeaway or in situ. These come courtesy of head baker Brendon Woodward, who’s also been overseeing the baked goods for the nearby Loulou Boulangerie. Come lunch, deli sandwiches take over the counters before wine o’clock hits for a change up to share plates and vino glasses.
Rounding out the precinct is Una, a bougie and beautiful neighbourhood providore. Here you can pick up local and international cheeses, charcuterie, condiments used across the restaurant dishes, housemade pastas, local wines and spirits, alongside homewares and gifts.
Soluna, Genzo, Soul Bread and Wine and Una are open now at shop 2/168 Walker St, North Sydney.
