Changing cuisine every four months could lead to gimmickry. Not so at Atlas where Charlie Carrington's approach – a focus on essence over tradition – keeps things fresh and exciting.
When a baby-faced Charlie Carrington first opened Atlas Dining two years ago, his idea of a wood-fired restaurant that changed cuisine every four months seemed destined for the “folly of youth” file. Instead Atlas has become a unique and successful addition to Melbourne’s dining scene, attracting an impressive – and deserved – interest in what comes next. The simply, smartly kitted-out restaurant complete with leather cutlery rolls and a whiff of smoke in the air from the open kitchen has covered a lot of ground, from Asia to South America, Europe and the Middle East. Some forays are more successful than others but Carrington’s preference for choosing context over gimmicks makes them all worth experiencing. His Israeli menu, on which toasted challah and smoky hummus starred, nailed the brief, as did the clean, exact flavours on his Thai and Vietnamese menus. And on an exploration of China focused on Beijing and Chengdu, dishes such as yellowfin tuna with biang biang noodles or scallops with pitch-perfect XO sauce reveal a deft, knowledgeable palate. An added bonus? It’s great value for money with a cuisine-sensitive wine list. All aboard.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
