Soy sauce is ubiquitous across cuisines and often overlooked as a key element – surprising, given its critical role in imparting salt and umami depth. At Central, it receives deserved attention, anchoring several impressive dishes.
Take the dim sum, which arrives with soy sauce infused with ginger and shallot. Or the sticky, caramelised char siu pork, which sits in a first draw soy sauce steeped with dried mandarin peel. Then there’s the classic roast duck, smoky and gloriously tender, enhanced by a dark soy enriched with aromatic spices.
For some diners, these touches might be subtle, but they help capture the authentic flavours of Hong Kong. Executive chef Benny Lam, a native Hong Konger, understands its importance. He’s a co-owner of Central, alongside the team behind Rick Shores and Southside. Together, they form a seasoned group known for creating enduring venues.
For Central, they enlisted architect Jared Webb to design the restaurant’s distinctive interior. Set against 150-year-old stone walls, the subterranean space is centred around an open kitchen and bar framed by striking grid lighting. Tiered seating gives diners a clear view of the high energy action – wok flares and all.
Central identifies as a “dumpling bar and restaurant,” and its dim sum lives up to the name. Plump dumplings arrive filled with whole scallops and prawns, while crisp potstickers are stuffed with shredded duck meat and black fungus. The standout, however, is the wu gok (fried taro puffs), filled with diced baby abalone and chicken. It’s hard to stop at just one.
While Lam respects the classics, he isn’t afraid to experiment. Who would have thought salty prosciutto and smoked butter would pair so well inside a Hong Kong-style pineapple bun? Or that chu hou (a punchy, fermented soybean sauce) would enhance tender wagyu tartare? Then there’s the unexpected combo of smoked foie gras and sweet-sour Davidson plum jam, served alongside youtiao (fried dough sticks) – a fusion of French, native Australian and Chinese that works exceptionally well.
Central’s freewheeling spirit extends to its drinks, with rare Chinese wines available by the glass, bottle, or as part of a flight. For cocktails, there’s an umami-driven house Martini made with oyster shell gin and a cognac-based drink that can double as dessert – proof that there are no hard and fast rules here.
Like the lively Hong Kong district that inspired its name, Central finds beauty in both the traditional and contemporary.
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