Approaching its 50th birthday, Flower Drum remains as essential as ever, a masterclass in trend-proofing through attention to detail, rightfully revered service and subtle reinvention. The grand and meticulously maintained dining room always delivers a true sense of occasion, with its plush carpets and glinting lacquer details. So, too, the benchmark Peking duck featuring animal illustrations sketched in plum sauce, and the prawn har gow with pleated wrappers that serve as evidence of a benevolent deity. Yet Flower Drum is no museum piece. A (relatively) new bar has added excellent cocktails and bar snacks to the arsenal, while co-owner and chef Anthony Lui punctuates his menus with new classics. Superb spring rolls are filled with saltbush lamb brisket and gravy, while silken barramundi “noodles” are tossed with sausage, shiitakes and tangerine. And the incredible quail-meat-coated Scotch egg, with its brittle-crisp outer crumb, has the power to haunt your dreams. Here’s to another half century.
