Expect a warm welcome at the restored 170-year-old flour mill, where you can sit on the lawn, expansive deck or inside the three-level venue. Food is drawn from Kangaroo Island and the Fleurieu, supported by a considered South Australian wine list. Paper-thin kingfish sashimi works well with the bitter flavour and crunch of radish, preserved lemon and coriander. The substitution of peas for broad beans disappoints in a dish of ricotta, fennel and anchovy, while ling with eggplant, olive and confit tomato looks pretty but falls short in flavour and texture. There’s a lot to love, however, in tender beef flank, richly flavoured with pepper and smoked spring onion, and topped with salt-and-vinegar saltbush crisps. Desserts are impressive: pineapple sorbet lollipops, served on sugar sticks with silky coconut crème fraîche and a kalamansi jelly, are undeniably fun, as is a marzipan-heavy frangipane tart topped with fresh strawberry and chunks of honeycomb.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
