Eating near the sea. Food served family-style. Not doing the dishes afterwards: across Australia, these are things that define a memorable summer meal. And should all these elements come together in the one place, then more’s the better. Which explains why the opening of Lontara on Rottnest Island in 2020 was such a big deal. (It didn’t hurt, of course, that Bali-based chef Will Meyrick was part of the project, which made Lontara, by default, the closest thing that Covid locked-down Western Australians had to Sarong, Mama San and Meyrick’s other buzzy modern Asian hotspots.)
Fast-forward five years. While Meyrick has left the building – a cheery, breezy space within the Samphire Rottnest hotel complex jazzed up with woven baskets, ceramic sculptures and other seafaring Asian tchotchkes – Lontara still flies the many flags of Southeast Asia. Nowadays, the kitchen is led by Malaysian-born Zack Fong with support from Quim Hernandez and former Must Wine Bar impresario Russell Blaikie: both high-ranking cooking brass within the Prendiville Group, the owners of the hotel.
It’s a formidable partnership that, at its best, captures the vibrancy, deliciousness and sunny pleasures of Asian food. Vibrant, bright-eyed sambals have – like most of the sauces served here – thrust and personality. Marbles of sweet duck, tufts of snow crab and jewels of finger lime stacked on triangles of watermelon and pineapple call to mind the legendary ma hor served at legendary Perth fine-diner Star Anise. Crunchy fried whole fish with a Phetchaburi-style three-flavour sauce tastes like the thinking eater’s sweet and sour. (But hey, even trashy sweet and sour is pretty awesome.)
The sailing isn’t always smooth, though. When the kitchen’s dumpling game is on point, wrinkly triangles of tiger prawn meat have bounce and volume for days. When it’s off, the result are plates of somewhat forgettable flour and filling. Friendly staff are, mostly, best described as willing rather than able. It’s also worth noting that the restaurant occasionally switches to set menus during off-peak days and services: such is life when doing business in a tourist destination. While this decision makes financial sense for the owners, diners keen to taste Lontara in full flight are advised to visit when the full menu is on.
But the drinks list has depth, and the Vietnamese-style crème caramel dressed with a burnt coffee syrup is a reminder that bitter and sweet is a part of life and, at times, happily co-exist. And while Lontara, like every dining experience, isn’t flawless, the elements are all there for a memorable summer meal. Island time awaits.
Related stories
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
