The latest venture from Scott Pickett (Estelle, ESP) is a luxe, superbly conceived local eatery. Diners experience the heat and smoke from the wood-fired kitchen at the entry as they make their way to the leather and timber-clad dining room. It’s a drum roll for what’s next – nearly every dish takes cues from the grill. The bonito cream filling of a gorgeous tart topped with salmon roe is gently smoked. Charred flatbread accompanies prawn butter and spanner crab tossed with crème fraîche and finger lime. Roast duck is teamed with scorched orange slices and grilled duck hearts. Tarte Tatin is served with smoked vanilla ice-cream. It’s deft stuff: plates aren’t overloaded and smoke doesn’t dominate. There’s a similar sense of balance with the wine list, stacked with small producers making wines across the spectrum. You’ll want to waltz back to Matilda soon.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
