Several Chinese provinces can be found down this darkened stairwell in Sydney’s CBD: Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan and Shaanxi among them. In the bar, a suited lunch crowd tuck into bowls of crunchy chow mein, its accompanying fiery pork-mince sauce poured on cue. Whatever time, whatever table, the lamb pancake, a Spice Temple stalwart for a decade, is heady with cumin and ginger, the bubbly dough pan-fried Emperor golden. If “fire water” and “hot and numbing” aren’t enough of a clue, or staff are lost in the dark corners of the dining room, a large part of the menu (the hottest part) is written in red font. But don’t sweat it. Sweet relief is never far with the likes of abalone mushrooms in a garlicky broth, or one of the neat 100 wines. The fried rice, refreshingly, plays with smoke rather than fire, and makes heroes of smoked bacon and peas. Another wine, or another cinnamon-dusted spring roll filled with velvety duck-egg custard? It might be dark, it might be pricey, but this is Chinese worthy of the spotlight. Thankfully, each table has its own.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
