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Made in India: the designers and makers of Bengaluru

The city formerly known as Bangalore sustains a unique mix of world-class innovators and traditional artisans. Meet the makers of modern India.
Devotees at the Murugan festival in the Ulsoor district

Devotees at the Murugan festival in the Ulsoor district. Photo by Clare Arni.

In 2004 when I first arrived in Bangalore, as it was known then, it was most definitely not a case of love at first sight. The place appeared to be bursting at the seams. I searched for the city’s centre but was thwarted by endless traffic jams and bewildered by the chaos. After a few days I headed south to the spice hills in the hope of finding greener pastures. Yet within a year I’d regard the city as home, and more than a decade later I’m still happily living here.

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Old Bangaloreans reminisce about their sleepy village, before the opportunities created by globalisation were tapped and the town’s sudden exponential growth surged in the 1990s. Seemingly overnight Bangalore became famous around the world as the Silicon Valley of India, attracting an influx of foreigners and Indians from other states and turning it into a truly multicultural city. By 2011 the thriving metropolis had become the third largest in India, with a population of more than 10 million, and it remains one of the fastest growing in Asia. In 2014 the city’s Anglicised name of Bangalore was officially changed to the local Kannada language name, Bengaluru, though adoption has been slow and both names are still commonly used.

On the streets of Bengaluru. Photo by Clare Arni.

Unlike Mumbai, surrounded by the Arabian Sea and cloaked in Bollywood glamour, or the capital, Delhi, with its monumental architecture and grand vistas, Bengaluru’s attractions are not obvious. There are precious few sights to tick off, and because of this the city offers a different kind of experience for travellers, one that connects them to the people who live and work in the city – a mix of world-class entrepreneurs and innovators, cutting-edge designers and curators, traditional artisans and master craftsmen. They’re the makers of modern India. It took me a while to understand that the centre of this city, its soul, is its people. Here’s my introduction to the finest makers among them.

TEXTILES

Tharangini

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Stepping into the Tharangini lakeside estate is like entering a different world. This celebrated block-printing studio was established in 1977 by artist Lakshmi Srivathsa and is run by her daughter, Padmini Govind, along the founding principles of ecological sustainability and fair trade. Designers from across India and the world are drawn to one of the country’s largest libraries of hand-block print designs, featuring more than 2000 blocks, and there’s a shop selling ready-made products including silk stoles, tote bags, yardage and even the printing blocks themselves. Local jewellery brand The Jewelry Project, and fashion brand Calantha also have small outlets on the estate.

12th Cross, Sadashivanagar, tharanginistudios.com

Padmini Govind of Tharangini block-printers. Photo by Clare Arni.

Tuni Textiles

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Swati Maskeri weaves “slow cloth” on three handlooms in a house on the outskirts of the city in an area with a rich textile history. She also teaches at Srishti, the town’s design college. Working with third-generation handloom silk weavers on superb silk stoles and saris, Swati focuses on abstract designs rather than motifs often associated with Indian textiles. Her works are sold at the likes of the Guggenheim Museum in New York.

308, 1st Main Rd, Sector A, Yelahanka New Town, tuni-textiles.com

Cloth from Tuni Textiles.

Fatherland – The Indian Revival

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Ron Dutta is regarded as one of India’s best stylists, with an impressive academic curiosity and appreciation of Indian heritage and a commitment to revive traditional designs and techniques. In 2012 he established Fatherland, a brand of themed revival hand-woven saris, tribal jewellery, accessories and clothes. He unashamedly celebrates the past and delights in pointing out there’s no contemporary twist to his collections. He releases at least two themed capsule collections each year, which he has either curated or designed himself. By appointment only.

31, 15th Cross, 11th Main, Malleswaram, fatherland.in

LIFESTYLE

Basava Ambara

One of the most attractive stores in Bengaluru, this destination boutique and café in a 19th-century heritage home is run by antiques connoisseur Venkataram Reddy and his partner Aravind Kashyap. They showcase antique items as well as collections of contemporary textiles, jewellery, accessories and homewares created by local designers. Locally made products include Kale Nele textiles woven in North Karnataka, natural bodycare products by Bengaluru brand Do Bandar and the Ki range of notebooks covered in hand-woven khadi cotton made at a local workshop.

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93 Kanakapura Rd, Basavanagudi, basava.co.in

Venkatram Reddy of Basava Ambara, beside a South Indian wooden vahana, a vehicle of the gods. Photo by Clare Arni.

Cinnamon

Housed in a traditional bungalow, the city’s first “lifestyle” store was opened in 1999 by art collectors Abhishek and Radhika Poddar, stocking products sourced exclusively from India. Behind the main store are half a dozen carefully selected designer boutiques set around the bungalow’s central courtyard. Favourites are the fashion and textiles brand Rasa from Jaipur and India’s hippest sari brand, Raw Mango, from Delhi. Acclaimed Bengaluru chef Abhijit Saha runs the Café Cassia in the courtyard.

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24 Gangadhar Chetty Rd, Sivanchetti Gardens, Ulsoor, facebook.com/cinnamonthestore

Cinnamon.

Go Native

Opened recently in one of Bengaluru’s oldest and most interesting residential neighbourhoods, this concept store and café is a celebration of sustainable living and is committed to fair trade and supporting ethical producers. It showcases local talent, including lighting by Jenny Pinto (one of Go Native’s directors), toys and homewares by Varnam, beauty products by Common Oxen and yoga wear by Proyog. The farm-to-table café located on the first-floor veranda overlooks the leafy street and serves contemporary Indian vegetarian food using local, seasonal, organic produce.

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64, 10th Main, 5th Block, Jayanagar, go-native.in

Grasshopper

More than a decade ago fashion designer Sonali Sattar founded Grasshopper at her family’s farmhouse on what was then the outskirts of the city. Though in traffic it can take an hour to reach from the city centre, this is where I take friends to see the best contemporary Indian design, in a hip space combining cuisine and couture. Hidden Harmony is Sattar’s collection of stylish women’s wear. She has added a children’s line and carries Kris, a local brand of handmade leather bags, and gorgeous lacquered wooden homewares by designer Atul Johri, who works with craftsmen in the village of Channapatna, about 60 kilometres south-west of the city. In the evenings (and for lunch on weekends) the veranda transforms into an intimate restaurant.

45 Kalena Agrahara, Bannerghatta Rd, grasshopper.in

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JEWELLERY

Ganjam

Often referred to as the Tiffany of Bengaluru, Ganjam was founded in 1889 and served as the official jeweller of the maharajah of Mysore. The company remains family run, with Kumar Ganjam in charge. All its pieces, whether contemporary or inspired by heritage motifs, are designed and made in-house. The company’s commitment to preserving traditional handcrafted methods has been recognised by the World Crafts Council.

22/12 Vittal Mallya Rd, ganjam.com

Pallavi Foley

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Known for contemporary sculptural jewellery that maintains an Indian sensibility, Pallavi Foley is one of the country’s most awarded designers. Her range encompasses affordable silver and gold-plated pieces and investment works in solid 18- and 22-carat gold. Inspiration comes from Foley’s experiences: enamel artistry seen at the palace in Bikaner, the Sanskrit concept of Navaratna (nine gems) influences the design of her hoop earrings, and an “architectural” collection is a nod to the profession of her father.

Store B-10, Leela Galleria, Leela Palace Kempinski, No 23 Old Airport Rd, pallavifoley.com

Anvitha Prashanth of Go Native

ART AND ANTIQUES

Balaji’s Antiques & Collectibles

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Established in 1924, this shop supplied props for the 1984 period drama A Passage to India. Owner DG Balaji works with collectors from around the world and can source almost anything imaginable, from original movie posters to battle plans of Tipu Sultan. The shop is crammed full of treasures – rosewood ship chests, Thanjavur paintings, gramophones, campaign furniture, Burmese lacquerware, Ravi Varma prints – and the staff tell fabulous stories about each curio.

1st floor, 64 Balaji Silk Complex, Avenue Rd, balajiantiques.com

Gallery Sumukha

This gallery, established in 1996, occupies the largest private gallery space in South India and includes two exhibition halls and private viewing rooms. The striking staircase is almost an exhibit in itself. The gallery hosts regular shows and represents eminent Bengaluru artists such as Ravikumar Kashi, best known for his paper-pulp sculptures and installations. Don’t miss works by Clare Arni (who took photos for this feature) and Cop Shiva, Bengaluru-based photographers with international reputations.

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24/10 BTS Depot Rd, Wilson Garden, sumukha.com

Cushions at Basava Ambara

BEAUTY

Areev

Climb two flights of stairs in this nondescript building and enter what looks like an old-fashioned apothecary shop – there’s even a potion station with copper vessels in which shoppers can create their own shampoo and moisturiser, with guidance from Areev founders Ally Matthan and Apoorva Sadanand. They handmake products for hair, face and skin using local natural ingredients – some are said to be edible (apparently a customer once ate the soap and quite liked it). Matthan also makes fragrances under her own label and creates bespoke fragrances for clients.

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1st floor, 17/A Krishna Reddy Colony, Domlur Layout, areev.co.in

ORGANIC

Happy Healthy Me

Former gallerist Namu Kini teamed with her friend Misha Gill to create an organic brand and the city’s most comprehensive organic store, stocking more than 300 certified organic products sourced in India. Shop for coffee, tea, spices, clay and ceramic cookware, eco-friendly personal care products and locally made yoga mats.

660, 1st Cross, 11th Main Road, Indiranagar, happyhealthyme.com

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Notebooks at Studio ABCD

HANDMADE PAPER

Studio ABCD

This studio stocks “second life” paper products such as gift wrap made from block-printed newspaper, lampshades from waste cardboard and notebooks covered with film posters.

2nd floor, 99, 1st Cross, New Thippasandra, abcd.co.in

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Fiona Caulfield is the creator of the Love Travel Guides series of handcrafted guidebooks. Last year she launched a new series called Made in India. The latest, Made in Bengaluru, sells for $59.95 from lovetravelguides.com. It features paper made in the village of Sanganer and is bound by hand in Bengaluru.

WHERE TO STAY, EAT AND EXPLORE IN BENGALURU

STAY

Bengaluru has more hotel rooms than India’s capital and almost as many as Mumbai. For a sense of place, stay at the Taj West End. The luxury hotel dates back to 1887 and is a genteel reminder of the city’s past. Its 117 rooms and suites are set in low-rise wings in eight hectares of garden. Among the guest houses and homestays that provide a connection to the city are The Tamarind Tree, The Jamun and Laika.

EAT

Distinctive Bengalurean fare starts at breakfast with dosas, idlis and vadas: crisp rice-flour crêpes, steamed rice-flour dumplings and savoury lentil doughnuts. All can be enjoyed at the Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, where waiters pour coffee from high above cups. Chef Abhijit Saha presents his unique take on modern European food at his 28-seat restaurant Caperberry. Dégustation menus include dishes such as gazpacho with tuna tartare. Chef Manu Chandra uses local ingredients with flair at his East Village-inspired Toast & Tonic. Karavalli, in the gardens of the Taj Gateway Hotel, is known for grilled fish steeped in masalas made to coastal family recipes, and for traditional regional dishes.

EXPLORE

Take to the streets on foot. Bengaluru has arguably the best climate in India, so flâneurs are not limited to early-morning and late-afternoon strolls. Aliyeh Rizvi, the founder of Native Place, designs walks in places such as the lanes of Chickpet, the city’s oldest commercial area, where she tells stories about temples, silver shops and the silk looms. Through her business Bluefoot, Kaveri Sinhji organises innovative tours for private groups and travellers. At Unhurried, Poornima Dasharathi arranges meandering strolls with a focus on neighbourhoods. Her walks are particularly strong on history, culture and food.

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