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A chef’s guide to where to eat and drink in London

The duo behind St. John, Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver on eating and drinking in the UK's decadently dishevelled capital.
Sam A Harris and Jodi Hinds

Is there a more powerful pair of syllables in British food circles than Saint and John? Opened by chef Fergus Henderson and restaurateur Trevor Gulliver in 1994, St. John became a standard bearer for nose-to-tail cooking, influenced chefs around the world, and gave British food traditions their dues. Although St. John is the quintessential British restaurant, its founders appreciate and enjoy the many flavours that make up London’s cosmopolitan dining scene. As Henderson explains, “We are both very lucky and grateful to have so many great places to eat and drink here in London. This is only a small selection of the venues we love. We could have happily gone on and on… which reminds us of lunch!”

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A gem in the heart of Soho

We first met when I (Fergus) was a chef at The French House. We were introduced by our olive oil man and that’s how the whole thing started. When we opened St. John, Margot (Fergus’s wife) and her business partner Mel (Melanie Arnold) took it over. Neil Borthwick has recently taken over the kitchen and it’s just like the good old days. It’s been a part of Soho since long before the days of the Groucho (private members club) and saw the early and final days of The Colony Room Club. You know, when it was good old Soho. Naughty Soho. Sleazy Soho.

An institution to be treasured

Sweetings is working chaos. We all love chaos, especially when it works. Just go with its flow. I (Fergus) first went there with my father when I was a youngish lad. It’s comfortable in its own skin. Serving as it does serve. That is classic British food with an emphasis on fish. We always keep a weather eye on it, making sure they’re all happy. And of course, we go as often as we can. It’s stood the march of time, but it’s there and it must always be there.

A St. John Alum’s unique voice

One of the strengths of St. John has always been in its people. Sometimes people forget the great chefs that have run our kitchens. When they leave St. John, they’re still family. But we love that they go and sing, and they sing in their own voice. And no one sings with a more unique voice than chef Lee Tiernan of Black Axe Mangal. Mate, it’s out there. It’s Mission Chinese Food meets a bit of Dave Chang meets a bit of the Turkish kebab that everyone loves to get on the way home but never remembers eating. It’s all that stuff. And Lee does it brilliantly.

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Keeping it in the family

Rochelle Canteen is always a pleasure. Okay, admittedly there are family ties, but it’s good cooking, good people and a good space. It’s an oasis through a schoolyard door in East London.

One of the best set menus

Le Gavroche is almost a time capsule these days. It’s sat for many years in Mayfair. It’s this whole idea of extravagance. Take for example, the chicken: they’ll carve it right in front of you. Do you want your fish deboned? It’s all the classic dishes. All the classic silverware. Those great domes. The chariot. The cheese. The puddings. And it’s absolutely a fixture. At its heart is a good kitchen and a good restaurant. It’s that whole kind of deluxe idea.

Old- and new-school Italian

Ciao Bella is my (Fergus) favourite long-standing, old-school Italian. It’s the sort of restaurant you want to live around the corner from. For something new-school, Trullo is a lovely Italian restaurant in Highbury. Chef Tim Saidatan was one of our very first chefs. It’s become this happy, local restaurant with a good wine list and again, very local. I think that’s quite important. Good folk do good things.

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Our favourite curry house

Everyone in the UK has a favourite curry house. But the pedigree in the kitchen at Dastaan makes it a regular necessity for us. It’s somewhat in the Boondocks, but that hasn’t stopped the secret from getting out.

A happy place

The River Cafe is a timeless classic. It’s home to so many happy memories. We always smile while walking to our table. You just know you’re going to have a good time, particularly at lunch time. It’s really about the chefs, the people. The people who have been through it; the way they cook, the way they care, the way they source ingredients. It’s a place that we don’t go to that often, which makes it a thrill when we do.

Japanese hospitality

This list would not be complete without Japanese restaurant Ikeda. Stepping through the doors, you enter the real thing where, as in Japan, the hospitality is just as important as the food, which of course, is also a joy.

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As told to Jessica Rigg from the Local Tongue. For more chef’s guides around the world, see thelocaltongue.com.

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