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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Pavé de boeuf with Roquefort sauce and gratin dauphinoise


You'll need

1½ tbsp olive oil 4 200gm pieces of beef tenderloin fillet 150 ml red wine 200 ml beef stock   Gratin dauphinoise 500 gm floury potatoes, such as sebago 750 ml (3 cups) pouring cream 2 tsp thyme leaves, plus extra to serve 1 garlic clove, finely chopped To serve: coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley   Roquefort sauce 200 ml pouring cream 100 gm Roquefort, coarsely crumbled

Method

  • 01
  • For gratin dauphinoise, preheat oven to 200C. Thinly slice potatoes on a mandolin and layer in a buttered 1.5-litre baking dish, seasoning generously to taste as you go. Bring cream, thyme and garlic to the simmer in a saucepan over medium-high heat, then pour onto potato to cover (depending on the size of your baking dish, you may not need all the cream). Place baking dish on an oven tray and bake on the lowest shelf of the oven until bubbling and golden and potato is tender when pierced with a skewer (50 minutes to 1 hour). Scatter with parsley and extra thyme just before serving.
  • 02
  • Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat, add beef, season to taste and cook, turning once, until browned (2-3 minutes each side). Transfer to oven and roast until cooked to your liking (4-5 minutes for medium-rare), then transfer beef to a warm plate and rest for 5 minutes. Deglaze pan with wine and simmer over medium-high heat until reduced by half (2-3 minutes). Add stock, simmer until reduced to a glaze (2-3 minutes) and season to taste.
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, for Roquefort sauce, combine cream and half the Roquefort in a small saucepan over low heat and stir occasionally until melted and combined (2-3 minutes). Season to taste and keep warm.
  • 04
  • Drizzle glaze over beef and serve with gratin dauphinoise. At the table, spoon Roquefort sauce over beef and scatter with remaining Roquefort.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Oct 2013

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