Fitzroy Street, St Kilda. To the untrained eye, this particular strip of Melbourne might not seem to shimmer with what Rinaldo Di Stasio calls "Italianality". And yet it was here, in 1988, that Di Stasio chose to create his oasis of Italy, Café Di Stasio. A restaurateur's restaurant, it has not merely weathered fashions outside its doors, it has shaped them. Di Stasio the man has a reputation for being opaque, even mercurial, but if his motives are sometimes obscure, his actions can be more readily appreciated, whether it's in his involvement with the arts (as an early supporter of photographer Bill Henson or a prime mover in Australia's pavilion at the Venice Biennale) or in the transporting world he has created at Café Di Stasio and Bar Di Stasio. "You know how good music makes you want to dance?" he asks. "Good restaurants should make you feel like you've come to the right place. That's why I do this."