"In Bangkok, these smoky treats are available throughout the day and well into the night - and for good reason," says David Thompson. "I like to use quite a fatty cut of pork, and neck fits the bill perfectly. It might seem strange to use condensed milk, but it's what makes the pork rich and caramelised and truly of the streets." Soak 16 small bamboo skewers in water for 20 minutes for this recipe, and start a day ahead to marinate the pork.
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