Note Pickled pork hocks are available from most quality butchers but may need to be ordered ahead. You'll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.
Danger, danger, Will Robinson. This dish contains ingredients that could clash with wine, creating a shrill, jarring, unpleasant tartness. White wine vinegar; with yet more vinegar in the cornichons, the onions and the mustard: it's a minefield for the gastronome. But you can't make pickled pork and parsley terrine, the classic French bistro dish, without all these ingredients. Luckily, the French wine region of Alsace provides the solution: pinot gris. Traditionally, gris grapes were harvested late in Alsace and the white wine they produced was rich in flavour and low in acidity. The modern trend, in France, Australia and New Zealand, is for drier wines but the fatter style would be better with this dish: the lack of acidity in the wine won't clash with the vinegar, and the medium-weight grapey sweetness balances the acetic sharpness perfectly. There's also a ripe golden apple-like flavour in good gris that complements the pork perfectly. - MAX ALLEN
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